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Product Details
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William & Mary High Chest of Drawers #0462
SKU: 0462
|
Overview
Massachussetts, Circa 1690 - 1700. This Masterpiece of Pilgrim Century furniture is a marvel of design ingenuity, proportions and style. The original was made at the very beginning of the William & Mary Period and is considered one of the finest examples made in this country. Bun feet and a beautifully scrolled stretcher support the very refined inverted cup and trumpet turned legs. The bold waist molding transitions the elaborate lower case to the rather simple but elegant upper case
with its understated cornice. The teardrop brasses attach to the drawers with cotter pins, just like the original.
High Chests were the most impressive pieces of furniture of the day, as the cupboard had been in the previous century. They were used to store clothing and linens and only the very wealthy could own them. This High Chest is only 61.75" high so it can be used in many areas of your home.
The William & Mary High Chest measures 61 3/4"H x 41"W x 23 1/2"D and is available in Walnut, Curly Maple (as shown), or Cherry.
NOTE: Any kit we offer that is $1000 or more will require a 30% deposit at the time of scheduling. This deposit is fully refundable until we begin cutting the kit. (If a kit has already been scheduled we will require the 30% deposit at the time of order. What this means is that if we do not have a tentative ship date we will not charge the deposit.) At the time we begin cutting the kit we will require an additional 30% deposit. At this time both deposits are non-refundable. You will not be charged for the balance of payment until your kit is ready to ship.
CALL FOR SHIPPING QUOTE.
**Please review our shipping information about oversize items on our homepage!
High Chests were the most impressive pieces of furniture of the day, as the cupboard had been in the previous century. They were used to store clothing and linens and only the very wealthy could own them. This High Chest is only 61.75" high so it can be used in many areas of your home.
The William & Mary High Chest measures 61 3/4"H x 41"W x 23 1/2"D and is available in Walnut, Curly Maple (as shown), or Cherry.
NOTE: Any kit we offer that is $1000 or more will require a 30% deposit at the time of scheduling. This deposit is fully refundable until we begin cutting the kit. (If a kit has already been scheduled we will require the 30% deposit at the time of order. What this means is that if we do not have a tentative ship date we will not charge the deposit.) At the time we begin cutting the kit we will require an additional 30% deposit. At this time both deposits are non-refundable. You will not be charged for the balance of payment until your kit is ready to ship.
CALL FOR SHIPPING QUOTE.
**Please review our shipping information about oversize items on our homepage!
Reviews
Add Your ReviewReviewer: Mark
06/29/2010 01:15pm 
I just completed this place and, overall, I'm pleased with the results. The faces of curly maple have nice figure, much more tiger stripe than shown in Bartley's photo. The pieces which do not show are poplar. Two of those poplar pieces arrived broken and it took quite a long time (weeks) to get replacements.
There are many pieces to this kit, it's very important to sort them to start with. That will take lots of temporary storage space. Each is marked with its part number, and there is a list of part numbers, but there is no easy way to recognize a part by size or appearance other than to sort through the construction photos where the part is used.
Trial dry fitting is essential. There are parts which will not join very well because they are not tested for fit when made. You'll need (at least) some files, chisels, and small planes to get things to fit right. I found a small spokeshave and a bull-nose plane to be very helpful on occasion. I also used my router and table for one dado which was not cut to a fixed depth because the piece was bowed when originally cut (and was not held down the way it should have been).
A variety of clamps are needed, some as long as 4 feet. At one point or another, I used all 4 of my 3/4" pipe clamps and probably 8 to 10 of my less sturdy bar clamps. A long (5 feet) bar clamp is handy for squeezing opposite corners to get things square.
You'll need more Titebond II glue than is supplied. A pint should get you through construction just fine.
I used Moser's golden walnut dye. Supposedly, the example of this piece on Bartley's web site uses this dye; however, I found the dye to be much more amber/yellow than the red tone in the photo. I used a very concentrated (i.e., dark) solution on the base and a standard solution on the upper and lower cases. I put on probably 2 dozen applications of fresh garnet shellac as a top coat, then a half dozen applications of MinWax furniture wax over the lightly gray-fiber-sanded shellac.
Construction is fairly easy but sometimes gives you the "what were they thinking?" feeling. Mainly, this has to do with tightening fasteners when there is little to no clearance to get a tool in to perform the task. You'll need a supply of very small drill bits for pilot holes. Bits this thin tend to break if you sneeze at them. I wound up using brads to drill pilot holes (lots less expensive then a half dozen 3/64th" bits!). Make sure your chuck can grasp very small bits! I only had one drill with an old Jacobs chuck which was up to the task.
Above all, have patience and have fun!
There are many pieces to this kit, it's very important to sort them to start with. That will take lots of temporary storage space. Each is marked with its part number, and there is a list of part numbers, but there is no easy way to recognize a part by size or appearance other than to sort through the construction photos where the part is used.
Trial dry fitting is essential. There are parts which will not join very well because they are not tested for fit when made. You'll need (at least) some files, chisels, and small planes to get things to fit right. I found a small spokeshave and a bull-nose plane to be very helpful on occasion. I also used my router and table for one dado which was not cut to a fixed depth because the piece was bowed when originally cut (and was not held down the way it should have been).
A variety of clamps are needed, some as long as 4 feet. At one point or another, I used all 4 of my 3/4" pipe clamps and probably 8 to 10 of my less sturdy bar clamps. A long (5 feet) bar clamp is handy for squeezing opposite corners to get things square.
You'll need more Titebond II glue than is supplied. A pint should get you through construction just fine.
I used Moser's golden walnut dye. Supposedly, the example of this piece on Bartley's web site uses this dye; however, I found the dye to be much more amber/yellow than the red tone in the photo. I used a very concentrated (i.e., dark) solution on the base and a standard solution on the upper and lower cases. I put on probably 2 dozen applications of fresh garnet shellac as a top coat, then a half dozen applications of MinWax furniture wax over the lightly gray-fiber-sanded shellac.
Construction is fairly easy but sometimes gives you the "what were they thinking?" feeling. Mainly, this has to do with tightening fasteners when there is little to no clearance to get a tool in to perform the task. You'll need a supply of very small drill bits for pilot holes. Bits this thin tend to break if you sneeze at them. I wound up using brads to drill pilot holes (lots less expensive then a half dozen 3/64th" bits!). Make sure your chuck can grasp very small bits! I only had one drill with an old Jacobs chuck which was up to the task.
Above all, have patience and have fun!
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